Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts
Dates
Publication Date
2020-05-08
Time Period
2020
Citation
Quataert, E., Storlazzi, C.D., van Dongeren, A., and McCall, R., 2020, Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts: U.S. Geological Survey data release, https://doi.org/10.5066/P9XUI9Y1.
Summary
This data release includes the XBeach input data files used to evaluate the importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup. This was examined using a 2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, XB-SB) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH) model of Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands. Results show that explicitly modelling the sea-swell component (using XB-NH) provides a better approximation of the observed runup than XB-SB (which only models the time-variation of the sea-swell wave height), despite good model performance of both models on reef flat water levels and wave heights. However, both models under-predict runup peaks. The difference between XB-SB and XB-NH increases for [...]
Summary
This data release includes the XBeach input data files used to evaluate the importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup. This was examined using a 2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, XB-SB) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH) model of Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands. Results show that explicitly modelling the sea-swell component (using XB-NH) provides a better approximation of the observed runup than XB-SB (which only models the time-variation of the sea-swell wave height), despite good model performance of both models on reef flat water levels and wave heights. However, both models under-predict runup peaks. The difference between XB-SB and XB-NH increases for more extreme wave events and higher sea levels, as XB-NH resolves individual waves and therefore captures SS-wave motions in runup. However, for even larger forcing conditions with offshore wave heights of 6 m, the island is flooded in both XB-SB and XB-NH computations, regardless of the sea-swell wave energy contribution. In such cases, XB-SB would be adequate to model flooding depths and extents on the island while requiring 4-5 times less computational effort.
These input files accompany the modeling for following publication: Quataert, E., Storlazzi, C., van Dongeren, A., and McCall, R., 2020, The importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup on reef-lined coasts: Coastal Engineering, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.coastaleng.2020.103704.
The objective of this study is to evaluate the importance of directionally-spread sea-swell wave motions on wave runup at reef-lined coasts typically characterized by steep beaches, using a 2D XBeach short-wave averaged model (surfbeat, XB-SB, which does not include sea-swell motions) and a wave-resolving model (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH, which includes sea-swell motions) in 2D mode. Our study uses field observations of water levels, wave heights, and wave runup to drive and evaluate both models, which are subsequently used to determine the effect sea-level rise and extreme wave conditions on wave runup and its components in coral reef environments. Any use of trade, product, or firm names is for descriptive purposes only and does not imply endorsement by the U.S. Government.
