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Time series data of water surface elevation and wave height were acquired at ten locations for 517 days (in three separate deployments) off the north coast of Roi-Namur Island, Kwajalein Atoll, Marshall Islands, in support of a study on the coastal circulation patterns and the transformation of surface waves over the coral reefs. The relative placement of sensors on the reefs were as follows: ROI13W1 and ROI13E1 – fore reef ROI13W2 and ROI13E2 – outer reef flat ROI13W1 and ROI13E1 – middle reef flat ROI13W1 and ROI13E1 – inner reef flat
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This dataset consists of physics-based Delft3D model and Delwaq model input files used in modeling sediment deposition and concentrations around the coral reefs of west Maui, Hawaii. The Delft3D models were used to simulate waves and currents under small (SC1) and large (‘SC2’) wave conditions for current stream discharge (‘Alt1’) and stream discharge with watershed restoration (‘Alt3’). Delft3D model results were subsequently used as forcing conditions for Delwaq models to simulate sediment transport and dispersion. The Delwaq models were used to simulate sediment transport and concentrations under the same two wave and stream discharge scenarios. The Delwaq models were run using forcing conditions generated by...
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This data release includes representative cluster profiles (RCPs) from a large (>24,000) selection of coral reef topobathymetric cross-shore profiles (Scott and others, 2020). We used statistics, machine learning, and numerical modelling to develop the set of RCPs, which can be used to accurately represent the shoreline hydrodynamics of a large variety of coral reef-lined coasts around the globe. In two stages, the data were reduced by clustering cross-shore profiles based on morphology and hydrodynamic response to typical wind and swell wave conditions. By representing a large variety of coral reef morphologies with a reduced number of RCPs, a computationally feasible number of numerical model simulations can be...
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This data set consists of physics-based Delft3D-FLOW and SWAN hydrodynamic models input files used to study the wave-induced 3D flow over spur-and-groove (SAG) formations. SAG are a common and impressive characteristic of coral reefs. They are composed of a series of submerged shore-normal coral ridges (spurs) separated by shore-normal patches of sediment (grooves) on the fore reef of coral reef environments. Although their existence and geometrical properties are well documented, the literature concerning the hydrodynamics around them is sparse. Here, the three-dimensional flow patterns over SAG formations, and a sensitivity of those patterns to waves, currents, and SAG geometry were examined. Shore-normal shoaling...
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Projected wave climate trends from WAVEWATCH3 model output were used as input for nearshore wave models (for example, SWAN) for the main Hawaiian Islands to derive data and statistical measures (mean and top 5 percent values) of wave height, wave period, and wave direction for the recent past (1996-2005) and future projections (2026-2045 and 2085-2100). Three-hourly global climate model (GCM) wind speed and wind direction output from four different GCMs provided by the Coupled Model Inter-Comparison Project, phase 5 (CMIP5), were used as boundary conditions to the physics-based WAVEWATCH3 numerical wave model for the area encompassing the main Hawaiian islands. Two climate change scenarios for each of the four GCMs...
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Time series data of wave height and water surface elevation were acquired for 399 days at four locations on the southern reef of Ofu, American Samoa, in support of a study on submarine groundwater dynamics on this reef within the National Park of American Samoa’s Ofu Unit. The relative placement of sensors on the reef were as follows: OFU20E03 – mid reef at East site; OFU20E04 – inner reef at East site; OFU20W03 – mid reef at West site; OFU20W04 – inner reef at West site.
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Time series data of water surface elevation and wave height were acquired at ten locations for 153 days off San Juan, on the north coast of Puerto Rico, in support of a study on the transformation of surface waves and resulting water levels over the coral reefs. The relative placement of sensors on the reefs were as follows: PRI18E01, PRI18W01 – fore reef PRI18E02, PRI18W02 – reef crest PRI18E03, PRI18W03 – outer reef flat PRI18E04, PRI18W04 – middle reef flat PRI18E05, PRI18W05 – inner reef flat PRI18E06 – lagoon PRI18E07 – near-shore
A process-based wave-resolving hydrodynamic model (XBeach Non-Hydrostatic, ‘XBNH’) was used to create a large synthetic database for use in a “Bayesian Estimator for Wave Attack in Reef Environments” (BEWARE), relating incident hydrodynamics and coral reef geomorphology to coastal flooding hazards on reef-lined coasts. Building on previous work, BEWARE improves system understanding of reef hydrodynamics by examining the intrinsic reef and extrinsic forcing factors controlling runup and flooding on reef-lined coasts. The Bayesian estimator has high predictive skill for the XBNH model outputs that are flooding indicators, and was validated for a number of available field cases. BEWARE is a potentially powerful tool...
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Schematic atoll models with varying theoretical morphologies were used to evaluate the relative control of individual morphological parameters on alongshore transport gradients. Here we present physics-based numerical SWAN model results of incident wave transformations for a range of atoll and island morphologies and sea-level rise scenarios. Model results are presented in NetCDF format, accompanied by a README text file that lists the parameters used in each model run. These data accompany the following publication: Shope, J.B., and Storlazzi, C.D., 2019, Assessing morphologic controls on atoll island alongshore sediment transport gradients due to future sea-level rise: Frontiers in Marine Science, doi:10.3389/fmars.2019.00245.
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A model application using the phase-averaged wave model SWAN (in Delft3D) was developed to simulate wind waves in South San Francisco Bay, California, between 30 May 2021 and 19 May 2022. This data release describes the development of the model application, provides input files, and includes output from the model simulations in netCDF format. Model Application The model application included two domains (Fig. 1) that were 1-way coupled. The coarse overall model domain (wsfb_g1.grd) included the coastal ocean across the entire San Francisco Sacramento/San Joaquin Bay-Delta region was forced along the oceanic boundaries with measured time-varying, spatially uniform wave parameters derived from the Coastal Data Information...
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Time series data of wave height and water surface elevation were acquired for 109 days at four locations off of the north coast and four locations off the south coast of Buck Island, U.S. Virgin Islands, in support of a study on the coastal circulation patterns and the transformation of surface waves over the coral reefs. The relative placement of sensors on the reefs were as follows: BUI16S1T and BUI16N1T – fore reef BUI16S2T and BUI16N2T – outer reef flat BUI16S3T and BUI16N3T – middle reef flat BUI16S4T and BUI16N4T – inner reef flat
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Time series data of water surface elevation and wave height were acquired at ten locations for 518 days (in three separate deployments) off the south coast of Kwajalein Island, Marshall Islands, in support of a study on the coastal circulation patterns and the transformation of surface waves over the coral reefs. The relative placement of sensors on the reefs were as follows: KWA13W1 and KWA13E1 – fore reef KWA13W2 and KWA13E2 – outer reef flat KWA13W1 and KWA13E1 – middle reef flat KWA13W1 and KWA13E1 – inner reef flat
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We developed the HyCReWW metamodel to predict wave run-up under a wide range of coral reef morphometric and offshore forcing characteristics. Due to the complexity and high dimensionality of the problem, we assumed an idealized one-dimensional reef profile, characterized by seven primary parameters. XBeach Non-Hydrostatic was chosen to create the synthetic dataset and Radial Basis Functions implemented in Matlab were chosen for interpolation. Results demonstrate the applicability of the metamodel to obtain fast and accurate results of wave run-up for a large range of intrinsic coral reef morphologic and extrinsic hydrodynamic forcing parameters, offering a useful tool for risk management and early warning systems....
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Time-series data of water depth, velocity, turbidity, and temperature were acquired between 5 October 2015 and 21 March 2017 within the Monterey Canyon off of Monterey, CA, USA. In order to better understand the triggering, progression and evolution of turbidity currents in Monterey Submarine Canyon, an experiment was designed to directly measure velocity, suspended sediment and physical water properties (temperature, salinity and density) along the canyon axis during an 18-month period. Three moorings in the upper canyon (MS1, MS2, MS3) containing oceanographic instruments and Anderson- type sediment traps were deployed during three consecutive six-month periods (A: October 2015 - April 2016; B: April - October...
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This data release includes the XBeach input data files used to evaluate the importance of explicitly modeling sea-swell waves for runup. This was examined using a 2D XBeach short wave-averaged (surfbeat, XB-SB) and a wave-resolving (non-hydrostatic, XB-NH) model of Roi-Namur Island on Kwajalein Atoll in the Republic of Marshall Islands. Results show that explicitly modelling the sea-swell component (using XB-NH) provides a better approximation of the observed runup than XB-SB (which only models the time-variation of the sea-swell wave height), despite good model performance of both models on reef flat water levels and wave heights. However, both models under-predict runup peaks. The difference between XB-SB and...
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Using global climate model projections of sea-surface temperature at coral reef sites, we modeled the effects of depth and exposure to semidiurnal temperature fluctuations to examine how these effects may alter the projected year of annual severe bleaching for coral reef sites globally. Here we present the first global maps of the effects these processes have on bleaching projections for three IPCC-AR5 emissions scenarios.
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Time series data of wave height and water surface elevation were acquired for 100 days at three locations off of the island of Nanumanga, three locations off of the island of Nanumea, three locations off of the island of Nui, two locations off of the island of Nikulaelae, and two locations off of the island of Niulakita, in the island nation of Tuvalu, in support of a study on the coastal circulation patterns and the transformation of surface waves over the coral reefs. The relative placement of sensors on the reefs were as follows: TVL19NG3, TVL19NM1, TVL19NU1, TVL19NK1 and TVL19NL1 – offshore TVL19NG1, TVL19NM2 and TVL19NU2 – reef crest TVL19NG3, TVL19NM3, TVL19NU3, TVL19NK2 and TVL19NL2 – reef...
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Time series data of wave height and water surface elevation were acquired for 147 days at four locations off of the north coast and four locations off the south coast of Buck Island, U.S. Virgin Islands, in support of a study on the coastal circulation patterns and the transformation of surface waves over the coral reefs. The relative placement of sensors on the reefs were as follows: BUI15S1T and BUI15N1T – fore reef BUI15S2T and BUI15N2T – outer reef flat BUI15S3T and BUI15N3T – middle reef flat BUI15S4T and BUI15N4T – inner reef flat
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Time-series data of water surface elevation, waves, currents, temperature, and salinity collected between 17 May 2017 and 17 Jan 2018 off the southwest coast of Puerto Rico in support of a study on circulation and sediment transport dynamics over coral reefs. The data are available in NetCDF format, grouped together in zip files by instrument site location. A README.txt file details the files contained within each zip, including the file names, type of data collected, instrument that collected the data, depth, and start and end dates/times.


map background search result map search result map Dynamically downscaled future wave projections from SWAN model results for the main Hawaiian Islands Time series data of oceanographic conditions from La Parguera, Puerto Rico, 2017-2018 Coral Reef Circulation and Sediment Dynamics Experiment Kwajalein Island, Marshall Islands, wave and water level data, 2013-2015 Roi-Namur Island, Marshall Islands, wave and water level data, 2013-2015 Buck Island, U.S. Virgin Islands, wave and water level data, 2016 Buck Island, U.S. Virgin Islands, wave and water level data, 2015 San Juan, Puerto Rico, wave and water level data, 2018-2019 Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts Tuvalu, South Pacific, wave and water level data, 2019 Model parameter input files to compare effects of stream discharge scenarios on sediment deposition and concentrations around coral reefs off west Maui, Hawaii Physicochemical measurements of the coastal aquifer and coastal groundwater discharge on Kalaupapa, Moloka'i, Hawaii Modeled surface waves from winds in South San Francisco Bay Ofu, American Samoa, wave and water level data, 2020 Buck Island, U.S. Virgin Islands, wave and water level data, 2016 Buck Island, U.S. Virgin Islands, wave and water level data, 2015 Physicochemical measurements of the coastal aquifer and coastal groundwater discharge on Kalaupapa, Moloka'i, Hawaii Roi-Namur Island, Marshall Islands, wave and water level data, 2013-2015 Kwajalein Island, Marshall Islands, wave and water level data, 2013-2015 San Juan, Puerto Rico, wave and water level data, 2018-2019 Model parameter input files to compare wave-averaged versus wave-resolving XBeach coastal flooding models for coral reef-lined coasts Time series data of oceanographic conditions from La Parguera, Puerto Rico, 2017-2018 Coral Reef Circulation and Sediment Dynamics Experiment Ofu, American Samoa, wave and water level data, 2020 Model parameter input files to compare effects of stream discharge scenarios on sediment deposition and concentrations around coral reefs off west Maui, Hawaii Modeled surface waves from winds in South San Francisco Bay Tuvalu, South Pacific, wave and water level data, 2019 Dynamically downscaled future wave projections from SWAN model results for the main Hawaiian Islands