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This dataset consists of physics-based Delft3D model and Delwaq model input files used in modeling sediment deposition and concentrations around the coral reefs of west Maui, Hawaii. The Delft3D models were used to simulate waves and currents under small (SC1) and large (‘SC2’) wave conditions for current stream discharge (‘Alt1’) and stream discharge with watershed restoration (‘Alt3’). Delft3D model results were subsequently used as forcing conditions for Delwaq models to simulate sediment transport and dispersion. The Delwaq models were used to simulate sediment transport and concentrations under the same two wave and stream discharge scenarios. The Delwaq models were run using forcing conditions generated by...
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Time-series measurements of waves, currents, water levels, sea surface temperatures, ocean salinity, and water, air, and ground temperatures were collected in July through September 2011 in and around Arey Lagoon, near Barter Island, Alaska. Directional wave spectra, currents, water levels, salinity, and bottom and surface water temperatures were measured with a bottom-mounted 1MHz Nortek AWAC, HOBO temperature loggers, and a Solinst Levelogger in ~5m water depth offshore of Arey Island. Within Arey Lagoon, a bottom-mounted frame equipped with a Nortek 1MHz Aquadopp, Solinst Levelogger, and HOBO temperature loggers measured currents, water levels, and water temperatures. Ground temperatures (maximum depth 3 meters...
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Time-series measurements of waves, currents, water levels, sea surface temperatures, ocean salinity, and water, air, and ground temperatures were collected in July through September 2011 in and around Arey Lagoon, near Barter Island, Alaska. Directional wave spectra, currents, water levels, salinity, and bottom and surface water temperatures were measured with a bottom-mounted 1MHz Nortek AWAC, HOBO temperature loggers, and a Solinst Levelogger in ~5m water depth offshore of Arey Island. Within Arey Lagoon, a bottom-mounted frame equipped with a Nortek 1MHz Aquadopp, Solinst Levelogger, and HOBO temperature loggers measured currents, water levels, and water temperatures. Ground temperatures (maximum depth 3 meters...
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A three-dimensional hydrodynamic and sediment transport model application of the mouth of the Columbia River (MCR) was constructed using the Delft3D4 (D3D) modeling suite (Deltares, 2021) to simulate water levels, flow, waves, and sediment transport for time period of September 22, 2020 to March 10, 2021. The model was used to predict the dispersal of sediment from a submerged, nearshore berm composed of sediment that was dredged from the entrance to the MCR navigation channel and placed on the northern flank of the ebb-tidal delta. This data release describes the development and validation of the model application and provides input files suitable to run the models on D3D software version 4.04.01.
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This data release includes representative cluster profiles (RCPs) from a large (>24,000) selection of coral reef topobathymetric cross-shore profiles (Scott and others, 2020). We used statistics, machine learning, and numerical modelling to develop the set of RCPs, which can be used to accurately represent the shoreline hydrodynamics of a large variety of coral reef-lined coasts around the globe. In two stages, the data were reduced by clustering cross-shore profiles based on morphology and hydrodynamic response to typical wind and swell wave conditions. By representing a large variety of coral reef morphologies with a reduced number of RCPs, a computationally feasible number of numerical model simulations can be...
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Time-series measurements of waves, currents, water levels, sea surface temperatures, ocean salinity, and water, air, and ground temperatures were collected in July through September 2011 in and around Arey Lagoon, near Barter Island, Alaska. Directional wave spectra, currents, water levels, salinity, and bottom and surface water temperatures were measured with a bottom-mounted 1MHz Nortek AWAC, HOBO temperature loggers, and a Solinst Levelogger in ~5m water depth offshore of Arey Island. Within Arey Lagoon, a bottom-mounted frame equipped with a Nortek 1MHz Aquadopp, Solinst Levelogger, and HOBO temperature loggers measured currents, water levels, and water temperatures. Ground temperatures (maximum depth 3 meters...
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This data set consists of physics-based Delft3D-FLOW and SWAN hydrodynamic models input files used to study the wave-induced 3D flow over spur-and-groove (SAG) formations. SAG are a common and impressive characteristic of coral reefs. They are composed of a series of submerged shore-normal coral ridges (spurs) separated by shore-normal patches of sediment (grooves) on the fore reef of coral reef environments. Although their existence and geometrical properties are well documented, the literature concerning the hydrodynamics around them is sparse. Here, the three-dimensional flow patterns over SAG formations, and a sensitivity of those patterns to waves, currents, and SAG geometry were examined. Shore-normal shoaling...
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A one- and two-dimensional hydrodynamic model of the San Francisco Bay and Delta was constructed using the Delft3D Flexible Mesh Suite (Delft3D FM; Kernkamp and others, 2011; https://www.deltares.nl/en/software/delft3d-flexible-mesh-suite/) to simulate still water levels. Required model input files are provided to run the model for the time period from October 1, 2018, to April 30, 2019. This data release describes the construction and validation of the model application and provides input files suitable to run the model on Delft3D FM Suite 2020.04. Model Description The San Francisco Bay and Delta Still Water Level Model (SFBD-SWL) utilizes the open-source Delft3D Flexible Mesh Suite (Delft3D FM; Kernkamp and...
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Projected wave climate trends from WAVEWATCH3 model output were used as input for nearshore wave models (for example, SWAN) for the main Hawaiian Islands to derive data and statistical measures (mean and top 5 percent values) of wave height, wave period, and wave direction for the recent past (1996-2005) and future projections (2026-2045 and 2085-2100). Three-hourly global climate model (GCM) wind speed and wind direction output from four different GCMs provided by the Coupled Model Inter-Comparison Project, phase 5 (CMIP5), were used as boundary conditions to the physics-based WAVEWATCH3 numerical wave model for the area encompassing the main Hawaiian islands. Two climate change scenarios for each of the four GCMs...
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A set of physics-based XBeach Non-hydrostatic hydrodynamic model simulations (with input files here included) were used to evaluate how varying carbonate budgets, and thus coral reef accretion and degradation, affect alongshore variations in wave-driven water levels along the adjacent shoreline of Buck Island Reef National Monument (BUIS) for a number of sea-level rise scenarios, specifically during extreme wave conditions when the risk for coastal flooding and the resulting impact to coastal communities is greatest. These input files accompany the modeling conducted for the following publication: Toth, L.T., Storlazzi, C.D., Kuffner, I.B., Quataert, E., Reyns, J., McCall, R.T., Stathakopoulos, A., Hillis-Starr,...
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Simulatations of water levels in the Salish Sea for a continuous hindcast of the period October 1, 1985, to September 30, 2015 were conducted to evaluate the utility and skill of a sea-level anomaly predictor and to develop extreme water level estimates accounting for decadal climate variability. The model accounts for sea level position, tides, remote sea-level anomalies, local winds and storm surge and stream flows as they affect water density. Comparison of modeled and measured water levels showed the model predicts extreme water levels at NOAA tide gage stations within 0.15 m. Model inputs and outputs of time-series water levels along the -5 m depth isobath are presented. In addition, extreme water level recurrence...
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A seamless topographic-bathymetric digital elevation model for an area around Arey Lagoon, Alaska created from a combination of lidar elevation data collected in 2009, single-beam bathymetric data collected in 2011, and NOS sounding data collected in 1948.
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Single-beam bathymetry data were collected in 2010 and 2011 in the nearshore waters around Barter Island, Arey Island, and within Arey Lagoon, Alaska. Measurements were made from a small boat or dinghy using one of three systems: a Humminbird 898 SI Fish Finder with integrated GPS (2010 and 2011), an Ohmex Sonarmite BT integrated with a Trimble GeoHX series GPS (2011), or a Garmin Sounder with integrated GPS (2011). Each system collected single-beam water depth with accuracies better than 4 meters (m) horizontal and 25 centimeters (cm) vertical.
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Schematic atoll models with varying theoretical morphologies were used to evaluate the relative control of individual morphological parameters on alongshore transport gradients. Here we present physics-based numerical SWAN model results of incident wave transformations for a range of atoll and island morphologies and sea-level rise scenarios. Model results are presented in NetCDF format, accompanied by a README text file that lists the parameters used in each model run. These data accompany the following publication: Shope, J.B., and Storlazzi, C.D., 2019, Assessing morphologic controls on atoll island alongshore sediment transport gradients due to future sea-level rise: Frontiers in Marine Science, doi:10.3389/fmars.2019.00245.
This portion of the data release presents a wave model application developed to simulate wind generated surface gravity waves on an ancient lake on Mars. The phase-averaged wave model, SWAN, was applied within the Delft3D modeling system (Deltares, 2018) with reduced gravity and a range of atmospheric densities and wind speeds to simulate potential conditions that could generate wind waves on Mars. The data release includes model input files for simulations with three different atmospheric densities, compatible with version 4.04.01 of the Delft3D modeling system.
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This data release contains gridded bathymetry data from repeated multibeam sonar surveys and input files for a hydrodynamic and sediment transport model application of the mouth of the Columbia River (MCR), Oregon and Washington. The bathymetry data were collected by the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers Portland District Surveys Section between September 9, 2020, and March 10, 2021, to characterize the morphology and dispersal of a nearshore berm composed of 216,000 m3 of sand-sized sediment that was dredged from the MCR navigation channel and placed on the northern flank of the ebb-tidal delta in water depths between 12 and 15 m. Observations of berm morphology were compared with predictions from a three-dimensional...
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Simulations of water levels in the Salish Sea over the period October 1, 2016 to September 30, 2020 were conducted to validate the Salish Sea hydrodynamic model. The model accounts for sea level position, tides, remote sea-level anomalies, local winds and storm surge and stream flows as they affect water density. Comparison of modeled and measured water levels showed the model predicts extreme water levels at NOAA and USGS tide gage stations within 0.15 m. Model inputs and outputs of time-series forcing and water levels, respectively, are presented.
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Beach elevation profiles were measured along 29 shore-normal transects on and around Arey and Barter Islands, Alaska in August 2010 and July 2011. Profile data are available in a single comma-delimited file and a zip file including multiple .jpg images that show a visual representation of the individual profiles.
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Time-series measurements of waves, currents, water levels, sea surface temperatures, ocean salinity, and water, air, and ground temperatures were collected in July through September 2011 in and around Arey Lagoon, near Barter Island, Alaska. Directional wave spectra, currents, water levels, salinity, and bottom and surface water temperatures were measured with a bottom-mounted 1MHz Nortek AWAC, HOBO temperature loggers, and a Solinst Levelogger in ~5m water depth offshore of Arey Island. Within Arey Lagoon, a bottom-mounted frame equipped with a Nortek 1MHz Aquadopp, Solinst Levelogger, and HOBO temperature loggers measured currents, water levels, and water temperatures. Ground temperatures (maximum depth 3 meters...
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We developed the HyCReWW metamodel to predict wave run-up under a wide range of coral reef morphometric and offshore forcing characteristics. Due to the complexity and high dimensionality of the problem, we assumed an idealized one-dimensional reef profile, characterized by seven primary parameters. XBeach Non-Hydrostatic was chosen to create the synthetic dataset and Radial Basis Functions implemented in Matlab were chosen for interpolation. Results demonstrate the applicability of the metamodel to obtain fast and accurate results of wave run-up for a large range of intrinsic coral reef morphologic and extrinsic hydrodynamic forcing parameters, offering a useful tool for risk management and early warning systems....


map background search result map search result map Dynamically downscaled future wave projections from SWAN model results for the main Hawaiian Islands Beach profile data collected in 2010 and 2011 in the vicinity of Arey Lagoon and Barter Island, Alaska Single-beam bathymetry data collected in 2010 and 2011 in the vicinity of Arey Lagoon and Barter Islands, Alaska Wave time-series data collected in 2011 in the vicinity of Arey Lagoon and Barter Island, Alaska Conductivity, temperature and depth time-series data collected in 2011 in the vicinity of Arey Lagoon and Barter Island, Alaska Ground temperature time-series data collected in 2011 in the vicinity of Arey Lagoon and Barter Island, Alaska Sea-surface water temperature time-series data collected in 2011 in the vicinity of Arey Lagoon and Barter Island, Alaska Seamless topo-bathy digital elevation model (DEM) of Arey Lagoon, Alaska Hydrodynamic model of the San Francisco Bay and Delta, California Hydrodynamic and sediment transport model of the mouth of the Columbia River, Washington and Oregon, 2020-2021 Model parameter input files to compare the influence of coral reef carbonate budgets on alongshore variations in wave-driven total water levels on Buck Island Reef National Monument Model parameter input files to compare effects of stream discharge scenarios on sediment deposition and concentrations around coral reefs off west Maui, Hawaii Salish Sea water level validation simulations: 2017-2020 Salish Sea water level hindcast simulations: 1985-2015 Model parameter input files to compare the influence of coral reef carbonate budgets on alongshore variations in wave-driven total water levels on Buck Island Reef National Monument Wave time-series data collected in 2011 in the vicinity of Arey Lagoon and Barter Island, Alaska Conductivity, temperature and depth time-series data collected in 2011 in the vicinity of Arey Lagoon and Barter Island, Alaska Ground temperature time-series data collected in 2011 in the vicinity of Arey Lagoon and Barter Island, Alaska Sea-surface water temperature time-series data collected in 2011 in the vicinity of Arey Lagoon and Barter Island, Alaska Model parameter input files to compare effects of stream discharge scenarios on sediment deposition and concentrations around coral reefs off west Maui, Hawaii Seamless topo-bathy digital elevation model (DEM) of Arey Lagoon, Alaska Hydrodynamic model of the San Francisco Bay and Delta, California Hydrodynamic and sediment transport model of the mouth of the Columbia River, Washington and Oregon, 2020-2021 Dynamically downscaled future wave projections from SWAN model results for the main Hawaiian Islands Salish Sea water level validation simulations: 2017-2020 Salish Sea water level hindcast simulations: 1985-2015